Into Cambodia

I'm writing this near the Laos-Cambodia border with some extra US dollars in case bribery is required as apparently corruption is notorious at this crossing. Fingers crossed!

We're now leaving Laos after two days on Don Khon, one of the 4000 islands that make up the archipelago of Si Phan Don. Again, the journey here was an adventure in itself: a tuk-tuk to the Mekong, then a shaky canoe across the river where we were deposited on a quicksandy shore (luckily we avoided the worst of it after watching the first people sink to their knees!). Then a bus to another stretch of the river, then an equally shaky motorboat that we got to by climbing over others (incredibly nobody ended up in the Mekong).

While there isn't much to see as such, the islands are a beautifully sleepy place where the main effort of the day is to get yourself off a hammock to find another Beer Lao. While there were a few guesthouses, by and large the islands are populated by local farmers and fishermen and it looked as though it hadn't changed in decades. To say it was laid back was putting it mildly.

We rented bikes and cycled the circumference of both Don Khon and the neighbouring island of Don Det, stopping often to take in the beautiful views. Many of the cafes had cushions to sit on the floor with, while eating delicious local food cooked from scratch (so no rush to get your food - it's on Laos time). And you know the feeling after a good meal where you want to lie down and have a quick rest of the eyes? It is what you do here - hammock or stretch the cushion out to a bed. Awesome. Plus the sunsets here are the nicest I've seen as the light dances on the Mekong.

You'd never know it from looking at it, but these two islands were historically important during the colonial days. France held territory in northern Laos and the English were threatening - the French needed to get gunships up the Mekong but it is impassible at this stage due to the Li Phi Falls (we saw them - true enough!). So the French built a railway on Don Khon and Don Det, then a bridge to connect the two islands. This allowed them to transport ships overland and around the falls and ultimately defend their northern territory. Later it was used for goods transport. The railway was abandoned after WWII since roads made the railway uneconomical. Jungle quickly reclaimed the tracks. It was only in 1990 when a tourist discovered two engines on tracks deep in the jungle! Goes to show how remote some of these places were, and in many ways still are.

A great way to finish off the Laos portion of the trip. While the pace was much slower than the madness of Vietnam, and while they can't quite compete with the food and prices of their eastern neighbour, I found Laos to be a lovely country with incredibly chilled out and friendly people. Noticeably compared to other SE Asian countries, there was no pressure to buy stuff from an army of vendors. The understated beauty of this country will stick with me, and you can only hope it doesn't change too much with the inevitable increase in tourism as the years go by.

Now onto Cambodia. There will no doubt be some sad things to see here what with the recent Khmer Rouge atrocities, but important to see I think. But looking forward to seeing how the people and country have recovered.

Heading South

I'm writing this from a hammock which is the way forward for any kind of stationary activity I reckon.

Perhaps confirming that we've been doing a bit of "flashpacking", we decided to grab a second internal flight from Vientiane to Pakse in an effort to maximise the time we have left as the road infrastructure in Laos is still pretty primitive and we'd have lost at least a day to dodgy bus travel. This allowed us to take a trip from Pakse to the wee (and I'm talking one street wee) town of Champasak.

Almost to offset the flight guilt, we took a sawng thaew (literally translated as "two rows" - think converted pickup trucks with benches down the side) to get there which was an adventure in itself. These things won't go until full (and I mean full - people, chickens, every good imaginable). So we sat for at least an hour and a half before departing, amusing locals with my gangly legs squished on a bench. My ass was numb by the end. People came by to sell pretty much everything you could imagine from the back (we bought bread - very tasty!). After all that, the trip itself was only 45 minutes.

Champasak itself was charming enough in a sleepy way, but the main attraction is the incredible Khmer temple ruins of Wat Phu. We rented a bike to get there, cycling through a series of small towns where kids were intrigued to see us. Lots of waves and "sabaidee" (Laos for hello). The temples themselves were so deserted considering their magnificence. I think most tourists leave Laos behind after Vientiane. The ruins are located at the base of a mountain, pretty much covered by jungle so you'd hardly know they were there until you were nearly at it. The temple grounds were so serene and peaceful - you could really feel the weight of history over this place (the place is largely undisturbed since the 10th century).

Got back just in time to catch a Beer Lao alongside the Mekong as the sun went down. Unreserved contentment at this point!

Vientiane

In an effort to reduce travel time and maximise the days we have left, we booked a flight from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. Easily the shortest flight of my life, a mere 35 minutes but it saved us at least a full day of bus travel.

We arrived late afternoon and found out there was to be a New Year party in the main square in town. It was absolutely packed, with live music and Beer Lao flowing freely (and cheaply). Almost all Lao people mixed with the odd bemused tourist (including us). After the New Year countdown, a live DJ took the stage and hit us with a bunch of SE Asian chart hits - and multiple playings of Gangham Style. Is there a song in the history of the world more ubiquitous than this song? A brilliant night, getting seriously drunk and dancing with the locals, can't beat it.

The next day we were suffering pretty badly, but luckily Vientiane (the capital of Laos) is an easily walkable city with a flavour of France complete with large boulevards and an Arc de Triomphe style memorial, mixed in with Buddhist temples. Being the dry season, we were also able to wander down to the shores of the Mekong and take in the sun. The Thai border was just a stones throw away.

And as the ultimate hangover cure - 10 pin bowling! It felt like walking into a building circa 1975 in a proper old school bowling alley. Fi kicked my ass I confess.

Then a stroll in the night market, picking up various amazing food from the stalls and washing down with more Beer Lao. Amazing what you can do with a killer hangover when the incentive is there!

Happy New Year

Luang Prabang

The brilliantly named Luang Prabang is our introduction to the small nation of Laos. It is noticeably different than Vietnam - much calmer and quieter, and many more tourists. And because of this, noticeably more expensive. From what I've heard from a few people, the number of tourists have skyrocketed in the last few years, bringing higher prices to the point where locals can't afford to live or eat in town.

But it is easy to see why. The town is full of ancient Buddhist temples that are still active, meaning orange robed monks can be seen walking all over the place. The town is also built in a bay where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet, so the river views are stunning. And as always, if you're willing to leave the main town area, you can find the less touristy places - riverside bars serving Beer Lao for less than a quid (for 750ml bottles!), a market where you pay a quid for a vegetarian buffet, and wonderful little lantern filled side streets.

Because of its proximity to the rivers and the countryside, we went on a day tour which took in hiking through the jungle, through a minority people village, a serene waterfall (where I climbed above the jungle roof to zipline my way down - exhilarating!) and finished with a 3 hour kayak down the Nam Khan where we saw elephants crossing the water.

Off to the capital Vientiane today, where hopefully we can find a New Years Eve party. Technically there is a 1130 curfew in Laos (which is definitely enforced) but hopefully relaxed tonight!

Good Morning (and goodbye) Vietnam

And so ends the Vietnam portion of the journey. In the early planning stages we had thought two weeks would cover it, but we quickly fell in love with it and found reasons to stay on (knowing it would impact plans nearer the end). You quickly find its charm has hooked you, while mostly getting used to the more frustrating aspects (honk honk). Shall miss the mad street crossing, plastic stools, Saigon Beer, conical hats, and the fascinating history and opportunity that is Vietnam. Cam On (thank you) and shall see you again soon I hope!

But now - off to Laos!

Hanoi

The capital of Vietnam - much more laid back in some regards compared to the madness of Saigon, but full of equally wonderful experiences. A few highlights:
-arriving at 5am on the night train, and walking to the lake in the heart of the city to come across hundreds of locals doing Tai Chi, and what could only be described as energetic Vietnamese Zumba to pop music. Watched the sun come up. I'll never be a morning person, but so glad I was up to see this.
-the single most bizarre Xmas of my life. Hordes of folk out with Santa hats, a big pop concert near the lake, Vietnamese people wishing us Merry Xmas, drinking in a backpackers bar. Well suited cops kicking us out at midnight, but coming across a locals cafe who slyly gave us beer till 2am. And for Xmas day - no presents, but rather a visit to the embalmed corpse of Ho Chi Minh himself. Went to see Life of Pi in the evening. Full of children despite being late.
-the Old Quarter markets. Street after street of tents, shops, and stalls selling everything you could imagine, with vendors calling out, bartering and bantering. Motos flying around. Food stalls everywhere. A pure sensory overload. Imagine the most mental market scene you've seen and it wouldn't come close. I walked out numb - the brain can't take it all in.
-on our last night, a traditional Vietnamese water puppet show, depicting the fables of how the Vietnamese people came to be. Surreal. A word I've used a lot!

All this, with great beer, wonderful street food and lovely locals. Perfect.

Ha Long Bay

Just back from an overnight cruise in the otherworldly Ha Long Bay. Another UNESCO World Heritage site (of which Vietnam has many), this was yet another highlight of this trip. It's hard to describe, but the as the boat passes by a series of rock columns topped with jungle (complete with wee monkeys) you really get a feeling like you've sailed into a land time forgot. After the sun goes down, the hundreds of other boats bobbing on the bay look like a miniature floating city. On the boat itself, the crew was great as was the food, and it was good fun chatting with other travellers. My personal highlight was kayaking into a small bay within a bay with mountains towering all around you, bobbing in the sea. Plus, an exploration of the aptly named Surprising Cave (a massive place that was straight out of Lord of the Rings) and a personal Tai Chi lesson at 630am!

'Tis The Season

I think the sign below says it all!

Heading North

I'm writing this from a top bunk on an overnight sleeper train to Hanoi, and despite the warnings from a few other travellers we've met, I do fit on the bunk and can sit-up to read so all good.

Just leaving Hue which was ok - possibly a bit underwhelming after Hoian. It rained, proper monsoon style, all afternoon so it's hard to appreciate the grandeur of the Imperial Palace whilst soaked to the skin! We also ended up on a boat to visit the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc with only a Vietnamese family who shamelessly tried to flog stuff to us and we couldn't walk away.

That said, the pagoda we visited and the Emperor's tomb were stunningly beautiful and serene. Tu Duc was a bit of a legend. Every meal had 50 dishes prepared by 50 cooks, and his tea was made from dew that accumulated on leaves overnight. Not to mention a whole series of buildings to house his concubines. It's good to be Emperor clearly!

Up next - Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam and home of the embalmed Uncle Ho himself. The locals have all warned us it's very cold up in these parts, but I think this is by Vietnamese standards so reckon we should be fine. Might be nice to wear a long sleeve shirt again!