Vive la France!

Having now returned from France, I can safely report that les tabacs, croques monsieurs, Bougytel, moules frites, Zebda, Renaults and menus speciales are all still very much accounted for and thriving. Was it ever great to be back! All of the same sounds (a breathy “merci” and "au revoir"), tastes (non-refrigerated milk?), sights (that special way of tying a scarf), and smells (mais oui, les crottes de chiens) are exactly as I remember them from 2000, and I realise I still miss them so very much.

I spent 5 days of my Christmas holiday with Fiona and her family in a glorified cottage in the town of Tortefontaine, located in the region of Pas-de-Calais, literally a 10 minute walk from the border to Picardie. The place was fantasic, right in the middle of the French countryside and complete with wood burning stove and a patisserie just down the road. As I expected, there was much wine drunk (28 bottles among 6 of us, mostly red) and much cheese consumed (Munster, you still smell like les pieds des anges but taste divine).

And much to my pleasure, there was the chance to speak (and hear) the beautiful French language - at the fromagerie, the brasserie (the French café au lait still is the best caffeinated beverage I’ve yet to taste) and even with the local farmer. This chap is friendly with Fiona’s sister-in-law (her family owns the cottage), so we were invited over to his farmhouse to meet his family and have dessert with them. Not only were the desserts fantastic (including homemade tarte-au-pomme, oh la la) but so was the wine, cidre and the conversation. As only Fiona and I can speak French, we did most of the talking from the anglophone side which was a great opportunity to practice our vocabulary.

Another opportunity to speak the language came during a walk we took around town on Christmas Eve. We were outside the gates of an old monastery when we came across an old man lying on the grass beside the road. We couldn’t get a word out of him, and since it was cold and approaching evening we decided to go back to town to get help at the local pub. A few of the locals came back with us to the spot to check on the man who at this point was responding to our voices. The locals figured the best bet would be to call the local authorities, so they left to do so while us anglos were left to watch over him. I can safely say it was the most surreal conversation I’ve ever had with someone, and in French no less. Turns out our new friend was quite drunk and had decided to spend Christmas under the stars, and I don’t think he quite knew how to take me with my (as I was told) Quebecois accent and "formal" grammar. He seemed almost sad to go when the cops finally came and took him away – but I imagine that’s more to do with the fact he’d be spending the night locked up rather than because of my company.

We also managed to do some fantastic daytrips. One of the best was a visit to the town of Montreuil-sur-mer, a beautiful old medieval town, complete with walled ramparts that we were able to walk around. This is also the town where Jean Valjean (from Les Miserables) was Mayor before he was forced to do a runner. One pub even sold a Cosette Bier – and why not? We also managed to get down to Berck-sur-mer to walk on the beach and see La Manche (a.k.a the English Channel), to have a wee walk around Abbeville and to spend an afternoon in Amiens – the town with the largest Gothic building in France. The building was in fact a gorgeous cathedral built in the 1300's, and while I may have seen a few beautiful old gothic cathedrals in my day, this one still had the wow factor. The town itself was gorgeous, complete with Christmas markets, old half-timbered houses (a la Rouen) and scarved French women with little poodles.

This was certainly a most surreal Christmas, but one that was thoroughly enjoyable and one which flew by far too fast (as these things can do). I unfortunately gave my family the wrong phone number to reach me so I was unable to speak to them until I returned to Glasgow. A proper apology was most certainly due….but it does sound as though all is well with the Canadian Wilson’s. Trusting the rest of you also had a great Xmas time, and that the New Year’s experience works out for you. I’ve found that New Year’s tends to be the most overrated and annoying time of year, so I’ve decided to avoid all the hype and nightclubs to go up north to try something very different. But that surely is a story for when I return. As such – I wish you a Happy Hogmanay and look forward to making the next update in 2004 – cheers!